A tailor can take in the waist, shorten the hem, and taper a straight leg. A tailor can't add length, and can't really change the hips, thighs, or rise. Buy jeans that fit those three, and use a tailor for the rest.
Buy for the hips, thighs, and rise
Hips, thighs, and rise are cut into the jean. Letting them out or raising the rise isn't a normal alteration. If a pair is tight there, it's the wrong pair. If the waist is the only problem, that's a tailor job.
Take in the waist
A waist gap happens when you size up for your hips. Curvy fits are the best first try. When a pair you love still gaps, buy for your hips and have a tailor take in the back waist. A small gap is a simple centre-back seam. A bigger gap may need side darts.
Taper the leg
If the hips fit and the leg feels baggy, a tailor can taper below the knee on a straight or slim leg. Skip this on flares and wide legs. Tapering them changes the style you bought.
Length can't be added
Jeans can't really be lengthened. If you're tall or long-legged, shop the length first: tall lines, or a 32–34 inch inseam. Hemming can only make a pair shorter.
How well each cut hems
Most jeans can be shortened. Ask for an original hem so the factory-finished edge stays. How well it works depends on the cut.
| Cut | How well it hems | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Skinny, slim, straight | Easy | The leg width barely changes near the hem, so shortening keeps the shape. |
| Bootcut | Easy for 1–2 in | There's a slight flare. Taking off more starts to lose it. |
| Wide leg | Moderate | Hems fine, but the leg can look shorter and heavier when shortened a lot. |
| Flare | Hard | The flare widens toward the hem, so cutting it off removes the flare. Buy a petite or tall length instead. |
| Distressed or raw hem | Depends | Ask for an original hem, or cut a raw hem yourself. |
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FAQ
- Can you hem flare jeans?
It's hard. The flare widens toward the hem, so shortening the jean removes the flare. Look for a petite or tall length instead.
- Can a tailor take in the waist of jeans?
Yes. Buy for your hips, then have the back waist taken in. A small gap is a simple fix. A large gap may need side darts.
- Can a tailor make jeans longer?
No. Jeans can't really be lengthened. Shop tall lines or a 32–34 inch inseam if you need more length.